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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.